Temple Location :
SALIGRAMAM, POPULARLY known as Muktinath, a sacred place for both Hindus and Buddhists, is situated at an altitude of 3,710 metres in the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal — the summit of Dhaulagiri in Himalayan Mountain Ranges in Mustang District. Hindus call it Mukthi Kshetra. Muktinath is a pilgrimage shrine located 140 miles from Kathmandu in the snow clad Himalayas and it is located near the Kandaki river famous for the Salagrama stones. Muktinath is also one of the 51 Sakthi Peetams of India.
Sthalapuranam:
This Divyadesam is found almost in our Indian Border line. There is lots of doubt, where this Divyadesam is located. Mukthinath, which is found 170 miles from Katmandu, it is said this Salagrama Kshetram is found on the banks of Kandaki river. Mukthinath is otherwise called as "Mukthi Narayanan Kshetram".
Some say that Mukthinath is originated on the River Kandaki. But, some say, about 65 miles away from Katmandu, there is a place by named "Damodhara Kund", which is found on the bank of Kandaki river is said to be the Salagrama sthalam. But, whatever it might be, we all the bhaktas should consider that the stones (the Salagramam) which is found on the bank of Kandaki river is said to be considered as the Salagrama sthalam.
This sthalam is said to be one of Suyambhu sthalam (Suyambhu means created (or) originated on its own). The Salagramam is said to be having Jeevan within and considered to be one among the precious stones. If this Salagramam is kept in houses and done Poojas in a proper way, all the Ashta Lakshmis stay in our house and we can get out from all the burden. To explain about this, this sthala perumal, Sri Moorthy along with Sri Devi Naachiyaar is found facing along the direction of North, which is said to be the direction of Guberan, the God of wealth.
Like how, the thiruneeru (Vibhoodi) that is given in Lord shivan temple doesnt have any dhosham, irrespective of the body condition, this Salagramam also have the same character.
The sthalapuranam of salagrama divyadesam is closely related to Kandaki river, Thulasi and Radhai.
Story of Thulasi:
Once, there lived a Manukula king by named Kusadwajan, who had a wife by named "Madhavi". She did a strong tapas towards Sriman Narayanan. As the result of her tapas, she earned a beautiful lady child and named her as "Thulasi".
Thulasi did strong tapas and she had in her mind that she should marry Sri Vishnu and attain Him. Brahma appeared as a result of her tapas and gave her a boon that she will marry Sriman Narayanan in her next birth. And at the same time, Brahma said about her previous birth. He said that in the previous birth, she was born as one among the Gopikashrees (Radhai) and Sudhamar, image of Lord Krishnar got attracted towards the beauty of you (Thulsi) and got the curse from Radhai that Sudhamar will be born on Earth as Sankha Choodan.
Sriman Narayanan turned as Sankha Choodam and went towards Thulasi's house. Thulasi thinking that Sanka choodan has returned home, let her beauty to be enjoyed by Emperumaan. But soon after, she realised that the person who has aquired her beauty was not her husband but it was someone else and got rid from him. At that time, Emperumaan showed his seva and explained all about the boon she got and explained Sankha Choodan was also the image of Him (Sri Vishnu) and Thulasi is the Hamsam of Radhai and as per the boon given by Brahma devan, she married Sriman Narayanan.
After this, the Perumal told her that her purity and her Aathma will flow like a river and that river is Kandaki river and the Perumal, he himself will originate from the pure river as "Salagramam", the precious and spiritual stone.
To explain more about Thulasi, the perumal in Paarkadal worn her as the Garland, so that she is found on his body forever. Bhaktas who do poojas and explain her fame in Kaarthigai pournami are said to attain good position and they are not only blessed by Thulasi but also by Sriman Narayanan.
Kinds of Salagramam:
There are different kinds of Salagramam found in their shape and structure. They are:
Lakshmi Narayana Salagramam
Lakshmi Janarthana Salagramam
Raghunatha Salagramam
Vaamana Salagramam
Sridhara Salagramam
Damodhara Salagramam
Raja Rajeshwara Salagramam
Rana Ragha Salagramam
Aadhisesha Salagramam
Madhusoodhana Salagramam
Sudharsana Salagramam
Gadhadara Salagramam
Hayagreeva Salagramam
Narasingha Salagramam
Lakshmi Narasingha Salagramam
Vasudeva Salagramam
Prathyumna Salagramam
Sangarshana Salagramam
Anirudha Salagramam
Like this, there are so many types of salagramam and these Salagramams are identified according to the holes and the shape and structure they are found.
If any 12 Salagramams are found and the pooja is done in a proper way in a house, the house is said to be treated as 108 Vaishnavite Divyadesams and this implies how pure and precious is the Salagramam. When this 12 Salagramam is done with proper pooja, they should keep the Thirunamams of Sriman Narayanan (ie).
Om Sri Kesavaya Namaha :
Om Sri Madhavaya Namaha :
Om Sri Vishnuvaya Namaha :
Om Sri Thirivikramaya Namaha :
Om Sridharaya Namaha :
Om Sri Padmanabhaya Namaha :
Om Sri Narayanaya Namaha :
Om Sri Govindaya Namaha :
Om Sri Madhusoodhanaya Namaha :
Om Sri Vamanaya Namaha :
Om Sri Rishi Kesaya Namaha :
Om Sri Damodharaya Namaha:
So, irrespective of the size and the numbers of Salagramams, it is believed that if you worship in a proper way, Salagramam will lead us to a Good way and Mukthi.
Moolavar:
The Moolavar of this Salagrama sthalam is Sri Moorthy Perumal. He is found in Nindra thirukkolam facing his thirumugham along North direction. Prathyaksham for Brahma devan, Rudran and Kandaki.
Thaayar:
The thaayar of this Divyadesam is Sri Devi Naachiyaar.
Mangalasasanam:
Periyalwar - 2 Paasurams.
Thirumangai Alwar - 10 Paasurams.
Pushkarani:
Chakkara Theertham
Kandaki Nadhi
Vimaanam:
Kanaka Vimaanam.
How to reach there:
There are many ways to reach Muktinath. Either take a flight from Pokhara to Jomsom or hike for 7-8 hours from Jomsom or trek all the way from Pokhara through Kali-Gandaki valley, which takes 7/8 days. Helicopter services are also available from Pokhara & Kathmandu. There has a trekking route one of famous treks name of Muktinath. The sight of the bewildering Annapurana and Dhaulagiri ranges will enchant you as you approach towards Pokhara Valley by air or surface. The next morning when you discover the clear sky and views of mountain, you then discover you are on your special journey to the Muktinath. Apart from walking to Muktinath all the way, there are many ways one can travel, depending on time and budget.
Starting From Pokhara to Jomsom:
By Flight: Pokhara to Jomsom by air in about 30 minutes
By Trek: Pokhara to Nayapool by vehicle then do the 7/8 days trek to Jomsom,
Starting From Jomsom to Muktinath:
By treks: Walk to Kagbeni to Jharkot to Muktinath in about 7-8 hours.
By Transport: Go by local rented motorbike with driver/ 6 wheeler / Jeep in about 3 hrs.
By Horse: Go by a local rented horse in about 5 to 6 hrs.
By Helicopter:
1. Kathmandu to Muktinath in about 1.30 hrs
2. Pokhara to Muktinath in about 45 minutes
By Helicopter to visit Muktinath on the month of March to October is suitable. By treks to visit on the month of April to October is preferable
Around Places:
The Muktinath valley has seven historic famous places Putak, Jhong, Chhyokhar, Purang Jharkot and Khinga. Ranipauwa (Lit.Queen pilgrims hostel the name of Subarna Prabha Devi) is new settlement village founded by people of Purang. There are many monasteries and Gompa around the Muktinath temple.
Climate
Muktinath and its high valley are located in the Mustang Bhote region. The climate and landscape here are similar to those of the Tibetan Plateau since it is situated in the rain shadow of the Greater Himalayas. The changes in climate from warm to cold take you to the sacred shrine of Muktinath in Mustang district. Flowing through the region from north to south and forming deep gorges is the Kali Gandaki river. The temperature in summer (March to August) hover between Maximum of 16 to 18 degree Celsius and Minimum 6 to 8 Degree Celsius. In the beginning of winter (September to November) the temperature fluctuates between 14 to 16 degree Celsius and 0 to 4 degree Celsius. In the winter (December to February) the maximum temperature will be 4 to 6 degree Celsius and minimum 0 to -8 degree Celsius. Season: The most suitable time to visit Muktinath from March to May &September to October. In November & February it can be cold, but you can travel. December and January are for the diehard & snowfall in the all of area 4 to 10 ft. June to August is raining season. As the weather conditions would not be safe enough to travel in other months.
Accommodation:
There is enough Hotels and lodges near by Muktinath in Jharkot and Ranipauwa. The Hotels and lodges are fine there. Some Hotels have solar heated hot showers and provide rooms with attached bath. Also local restaurant are available there. They provide good food. For Hindu pilgrims there are also free Dharamsalas.
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PERSONAL EXPERIENCE TO DIVYA DESAM.
Mukhthinath trip:
25th March 2011:
Got up early morning 2.30am and left to Dubai from Abudhabi. For 1 hour the way was totally fog and was difficult to drive for the driver. We reached at 6am and checked in the baggages for the flight ‘Fly dubai’ @ 7am.
We got to know our group from Dubai and Sharjah.
Reached Kathmandu around 1pm. Met Mr.Basant , our guide who guide us to domestic airport and got our boarding passes from Yeti Airlines to Pokhara. We had our lunch which we had packed from home.
Waited for the flight for almost 20mts. Then boarded the local flight to Pokhara which was only 25mts from Kathmandu.
After getting our baggages, Mr Rajan met us all and guided us to the hotel, Hotel Rabi. After refreshing ourselves, we had mysorepak and upma alongwith tea.
We then took the bus to Kantaki river for holy bath around 6pm. The water was not that cold. So everyone of us got into the river. Took few fotos as the place was very beautiful. Then came back to our rooms. We bought pooja items for Lord Mukhthinath like haldi, kumkum, Nepal coins, Diyas.
Dinner was served around 7.30pm and we were given next day program by Mr Rajan.
26th March 2011:
Got up at 6am and got ready to take the flight at 8am from Pokhara to Jomsom. After breakfast and tea, we had to wait for a long time. After getting boarding passes and security check , got into the Tara Air flight to go to Jomsom. The travel was about 25mts only. We could see the beauty of Himalayan ranges with snow, the Kantaki river flowing all the way. We looked around the small airport surrounded by mountains. A serene place with cool breeze blowing. As assured, the incharge had made all arrangements for our trip to Muktinath. Annapurna trekking permit is a must and we have to submit our pass port photographs with NR as fees for the same. We headed towards “Oms home” hotel to keep our baggages. We had hot ginger tea prepared by the nepali lady, who was the owner of the hotel. Then packed all the things necessary for our travel to Mukthinath temple. Apart from a set of change of clothes, woolen clothes, we had taken pooja items, vastrams, dry fruits, etc to be offered to the Lord. We had taken enough medicines for fever, cold, pains , etc. along with first aid , by the grace of Lord, we didn’t have to really use anything until we returned back home.
Muktinath is situated at a height of 3,800 metres whereas jomsom is at 2713 metres. Jomsom is the base for trekking. Many Europeans can be seen on the way. It takes about 7-8 hours by walk. Motor bikes and Jeeps are available who drop us near the entrance of the temple. Since, we were in a group, we took the jeep.
Surrounded by Annapurna mountains on one side and Dhaulagiri mountains on the other sides, a pleasant chilly breeze and Kali Gandaki flowing below, the picturesque beauty was feast to the body mind and soul.
On the way we chanted Vishnu sahasranamam in the jeep. It took us almost 1 hour 30mts to reach the base. Our guide had given our lunch packed. So we found time to have the curd rice as kids were also feeling hungry and tired. Then we had to either take bikes to reach the temple or climb few stone steps. We started our walk. It was really tough as oxygen was getting lesser as we were climbing up. Taking rest here and there and chanting “Narayana” we reached the entrance in 30 mts.
Buddhist prayer wheels at the entrance to the Muktinath complex is visible. These revolving cylinders are a common sight in Nepal.
Reaching Mukthinath our final destination of this trip
Ascending few more steps, we finally reached our destination. There is huge bell hung in front of the gate. Having passed through the entrance gate, we proceed to the complex's first shrine. Muktinath is sacred to both Vaishnavas and Buddhists.
We were very much in the 106th Divyadesam, Lord Muktinath is, for Vaishnavas, Sri Padmapani (the form of Lord Visnu from whose lotus feet sacred waters flow). Tibetan Buddhists worship Him as Adi-Buddha. Lord Muktinath's form is manifest in brass. In bodily shape and posture He resembles the Yoga Narayana Deity Atop the hill behind the Muktinath Temple is a Buddhist shrine.
There are 108 shower spouts coming from the glacier on the back wall of the shrine with the best water that makes the journey a complete success. Since the water is ice cold and due to limited time allowed for darshan, most of the piligrims who come, sprinkle water from the 108 gomukhis behind the temple.
Jutting from the stone wall that encloses Muktinath Temple on three sides are 108 gomukhs or cows' mouths. From each mouth icy glacial water flows. The water is considered as pure as the Ganges, which flows from Gomukh in the Indian Himalayas. ! The tremendous Nilgiri peak overlooking Jomsom. The Water from Gandaki is routed through these man-made gomukhis which are closely built ,the distance between the gomukhis may be hardly a foot . WE felt as if a hammer had struck our heads after passing thru these gomukhis. Thanking God,and chanting Narayanas name, some of us ran bravely to take a bath under the gomukhs. Added to this, We were asked to have a dip in 2 small tanks situated in front of the temple, which is said as ‘Papa kund’ and ‘Punya kund’. But, due to time constraint, we just sprinkled water from those tanks. The temperature for the day was recorded at 3 degrees and the chilly water was almost in a frozen condition . After changing into dry clothes, in separate rooms provided for ladies and gents, we went inside the temple.
The temple is very small. In front of the garbagriham, towards left, there is a vigraham of our Acharyar, Sri Ramanujar. In front of this idol, there is a homa kundam. After having darshan of our Acharyar, we went for the darshan of Lord Mukthinath.
The moment we saw the divya mangala swaroopam of the Lord, Sri Srimoorthi, we forgot the cold and the pains. The enchanting beauty of the Lord cannot be described in words. The deity at Muktinath is a large brass deity with a very transcendental smile. Perumal is in Veetirundha Thirukolam (sitting posture) with Ubhaya naachiyars,(Sridevi and Bhoodevi Thayar) on either sides in Nindra Thirukolam flanking Him. Though in the divya desa naamavali, Perumal is known as “SRIDEVI NAYIKA SAMETHA SRI SRIMOORTHI”, we found ubhaya naachiyaars, Sridevi and Bhoodevi Thayar on either sides of Perumal flanking Him. Perumal is seen in sitting posture while Ubhaya Naachiyars are in Nindra Thirukolam. As it is often mentioned that Adisesha always performs various kainkaryams to Perumal, here Adisesha is seen spreading hoods like an umbrella. Garudazhwar and other Saalagramams are also worshipped. Inside the garbagriham, near the entrance on the right side, there is a small vigraham of Buddha. Muktinath is holy place both for Hindus and Buddhists. Even foreigners enter the temple and have a darshan of the Lord even though they do not know the significance of the place, they offer their respects to the Lord.
A Buddhist lady accepted our offerings to Perumal- vastrams for Perumal and Thayar, dry fruits, honey, sandal paste, rose water etc. which we had carried with us for offering it to Lord. This lady gives theertha prasadam and offers neivedyam and is restrained from doing Thirumanjanam to the Lord.
There was no rush and We were able to have darshan to our heart’s content. Perumal’s smiling Thirumugam is very enchanting and we could not take our eyes off .
The Nepali security emphasized that the temple was 500 years old and it would be closed during severe winter (i.e. from October to February) every year. Due to time constraint, we left the temple reluctantly after taking few photographs.
Atop the hill behind the Muktinath Temple is a Buddhist shrine. Incredibly, some Buddhist nuns who serve at Muktinath daily climb this hill to also perform worship up there. There was Lord Narasimha idol also.
We can get sugar/tea powder/wheat flour or anything and give to the nepali lady who are serving in these temples as its difficult for them to go down to the market and get the things.
Jwala Mukhi: A five minute walk down the temple towards left led us to “JWALA MUKHI”,the place where we can see 2 wonders :- First, fire coming from water and fire coming from stone. This fire is emitted continuously and one has to peep into a small opening to see the same. A natural blue fire can be clearly seen from water which is unbelievable. This is a representation of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu as it was here Brahma and Shiva did penance to obtain Lord Vishnu’s grace. Here Lord Maha Vishnu is in the form of water, Lord Shiva in the form of fire and Brahma as performer of sacrifice. Various demigods, rishis, kinnaras, gandharvas,apsaras always live in this Muktikshetra in the form of animate and inanimate things like small brooks, creepers etc. Lord Vishnu appeared before them and as per their desire, continued to reside in this place. This is also considered to be a Buddhist shrine because one Buddhist monk got enlightenment here. As a proof of this, we could find various stupas of Buddhist monks and their dwarapaalakas.
Back to Jomsom:
After having the darshan of Lord, we got few salagramams near the temple.
Then we took motorbikes to reach the base. It costs INR 150/- one way. After that we had to walk nearly 2kms where our jeeps were parked.
On the way back, we requested our driver to stop on the Kantaki river-bed to collect saligramams. It was too windy that we could not even stand for 10mts. Somehow few of them collected saligramams. Some small and few were big. We got back to our hotel by evening. Had hot tea prepared by that nepali lady.
After refreshing, we all gathered and shared our experience. Kids played for sometime. By 8pm we all had hot dinner roti, sabji, rice and went back to sleep, peacefully and satisfied.
27th March,2011:
Next day, we took the flight at 8am and reached Pokhara.
We all got our boarding pass for Budda Air, from Kathmandu to lucknow. And also our lunch packs.
We flew back from pokhara to Kathmandu and reached by 11am. Mr. Basant was ready with the bus. Loaded all our baggages and boarded the bus. We went to Pasupathinath temple and had darshan of Lord. Lord Shiva’s face with matted locks and Ganges escaping from the locks is beautifully carved on all five sides of the lingam. Also, the garbagriham has doors on all four sides which enables the devotees to have darshan from all the four sides.
Our next point was Buddhanilkantha temple, 9 kms from Kathmandu city.
Since, we had enough time, we quickly had our lunch in the bus.
The temple consists of a pond in which lies a great stone figure of Lord Vishnu reclining on the coils of a cosmic serpent. The huge statue of sleeping Vishnu lying on Ananta Sesa, in the cosmic ocean is very attractive . The Deity is over 1,000 years old. Lord Vishnu is about 5m (17 ft) long and is lying in a 13m (43 ft) long tank, as if floating, with His legs crossed. His four hands hold the four symbols of Vishnu: the chakra (disc), club, and conch-shell and lotus flower. Budhanilkantha literally means “old blue-throat.” Ananta has 11-hooded heads. It is believed that the deity was carved in the 7th or 8th century during the Licchavi period. It is carved from the single block of black stone of a type not found in the valley. The main festival of the year is when Lord Vishnu, who sleeps on the cosmic ocean during Chaturmasya period wakes up on the Haribondhini Ekadashi day in late October or early November. Many thousands of people come on this day. Three other images of Lord Vishnu were carved at the same time. One is here at Budhanilkantha and is considered the most important and original, one is at Balaju Gardens, and one is at the old Royal Palace in Kathmandu, but cannot be viewed by tourist. The king of Nepal is not allowed to see the deity at Budhanilkantha, but he can see the other two deities. It is believed if the king sees this deity of Vishnu he will die immediately. This was lost for a while and was later rediscovered by a farmer. It is believed that the farmers struck the buried deity with his plough and that blood came out from the ground.
Back to Kathmandu Airport
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